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Escapes: Parisian Pursuits
Paris is more than a romantic getaway of cafés and museums. The City of Lights is a great place for a mother-daughter trip. But planning is the key.
by Ann B. Lally
June 1, 2007
Over aperitifs at the Westin Paris in chic Faubourg Saint-Honoré, two women gleefully admired the
richly textured damask draperies cascading down the drawing room walls. The older of the two
surveyed the glorious formal garden beyond the two story windows and proclaimed, “I think I’ll have
my next wedding here, a destination wedding.”
“Oh, really? Who will be the lucky man?” “I don’t know. He hasn’t been born yet,” replied my
80 year old widowed mother. Travel to the City of Light with your mother? That’s right, your
mother, not your husband or significant other. A mother’s temperament and cadence might mirror
yours more than you think, especially in Paris. You’ll find the esprit des corps that Paris
inspires, as long as patience and tempo are kept in check. My mother and I agreed
that our trip was a success because we discussed what we wanted to do and limited the duration to
six days. In spite of our compatibility, we wanted enough time to savor the experience and enjoy
one another before either of us got antsy or agitated. A hotel with a good concierge was our
insurance policy for prompt, courteous resolution of reservations, transportation and potential
medical emergencies.
Before our hotel room was ready upon arrival, we ventured on a two-hour city tour to get acclimated and recap our trip goals. Then Paris was ours to enjoy. We agreed in advance on the balance between cultural activities and people watching from cafés. We even concurred about specific neighborhoods where we wanted to stroll, mostly the sixth and first arrondissements. The only activity we missed was a Saturday green market, where Parisians convene for fresh produce and conversation.
We opted for an early morning private tour of the Louvre Museum. Stealth in our visit, we concentrated on four areas of art during two hours, as much as we could process without overload. Afterward, we shared our learning and enthusiasm over lunch at the chic Café Marly, overlooking the Louvre’s vast courtyard.
A half-day trip to Chartres was on our plan, provided that weather would cooperate. It mirrored Atlanta’s in late January, a balmy 50 degrees, so we hopped a cab to Gare Montparnasse at 7:30 a.m., found the ticket booth and the train, and joined business people and students, who read “ Le Figaro” or chatted quietly. An hour later, helpful Chartres station employees suggested a walking route up an easy three-block incline to the original Notre Dame cathedral, named to honor Mary, mother of Jesus.
The colossal high gothic wonder is home to a relic of Mary. In one of the many chapels resides a piece of clothing that she is believed to have worn while pregnant with Jesus. Towering above are intricate stained glass windows depicting stories from the New and Old Testaments, and salutes to the trades people and leaders who shared in its construction. A labyrinth on the floor of the cathedral, just below the massive rose window, also attracts tourists and pilgrims, who followed a sacred road to Chartres long before 1120, when it was Druid ceremonial ground. We walked through the charming old town and returned to Paris by 2 p.m. after a power nap on the train.
With a little planning and patience, Paris is just the place for an enriching and relaxing sojourn avec ma mere. Next time your mother shops for a memory, raise your hand and plan!
Fun Paris activities with your mother
1. Tour the city by bus.
2. Musee d’Orsay.
3. Dinner at Le Souffle, 35 Rue de Mont Trabor. Only soufflés and Parisians.
4. Place des Vosges in the Marais district. Antique and art stores, fashionable cafes, and street musicians abound. Enjoy lunch at Nectarine on the Place.
5. Limit shopping. Look only for what’s not available in Atlanta.
6. Debauve & Gassais, 30 Rue des Saints Peres, 7th arrondissement (district). Exotic and sublime chocolates. Free samples.
7. Curiosity shops on Ile Saint Louis, with a stop at Bertillion for ice cream.
8. Frey Wille. Palais Royal, 167 Rue Saint Honoré. Exquisite enamel jewelry. Lunch at Les Delices de Monon, 400 Rue Saint-Honoré. Walk off dessert with a stroll through this shopping mecca to tea at the RitzHotel.
9. Eiffel Tower evening light show. It glitters like a disco ball for about 10 minutes on the hour.
10. Take a boat ride on the Seine.
Helpful Hints for a successful Paris visit with your mother
1. Consider an off-season trip, when crowds are less and packages are cheaper. Air France and Delta Air Lines vacations have shorter packages
than most tour operators, with flexible dates, favorable rates and reputable resources.
2. Be patient and plan ahead together, discussing goals and leaving little to spontaneous activities. The Louvre needs a plan. If you visit, consider investing in a private guide, even in the off-season.
3. Put your mother down for a late afternoon nap daily. If she doesn’t nap, she’ll rest, and you should, too. If you can’t rest while she does, then take a brisk walk in the neighborhood, or plan a spontaneous adventure from an armchair or cafe.
4. Manage cash, maps and documentation. If your mother needs a task, delegate guidebook references.
5. Make dinner reservations. If you show up without one and politely request a table, the maitre d’ might make room for you or suggest a suitable alternative in the neighborhood.
6. Pace yourselves. Stop at a café and people watch.
Before our hotel room was ready upon arrival, we ventured on a two-hour city tour to get acclimated and recap our trip goals. Then Paris was ours to enjoy. We agreed in advance on the balance between cultural activities and people watching from cafés. We even concurred about specific neighborhoods where we wanted to stroll, mostly the sixth and first arrondissements. The only activity we missed was a Saturday green market, where Parisians convene for fresh produce and conversation.
We opted for an early morning private tour of the Louvre Museum. Stealth in our visit, we concentrated on four areas of art during two hours, as much as we could process without overload. Afterward, we shared our learning and enthusiasm over lunch at the chic Café Marly, overlooking the Louvre’s vast courtyard.
A half-day trip to Chartres was on our plan, provided that weather would cooperate. It mirrored Atlanta’s in late January, a balmy 50 degrees, so we hopped a cab to Gare Montparnasse at 7:30 a.m., found the ticket booth and the train, and joined business people and students, who read “ Le Figaro” or chatted quietly. An hour later, helpful Chartres station employees suggested a walking route up an easy three-block incline to the original Notre Dame cathedral, named to honor Mary, mother of Jesus.
The colossal high gothic wonder is home to a relic of Mary. In one of the many chapels resides a piece of clothing that she is believed to have worn while pregnant with Jesus. Towering above are intricate stained glass windows depicting stories from the New and Old Testaments, and salutes to the trades people and leaders who shared in its construction. A labyrinth on the floor of the cathedral, just below the massive rose window, also attracts tourists and pilgrims, who followed a sacred road to Chartres long before 1120, when it was Druid ceremonial ground. We walked through the charming old town and returned to Paris by 2 p.m. after a power nap on the train.
With a little planning and patience, Paris is just the place for an enriching and relaxing sojourn avec ma mere. Next time your mother shops for a memory, raise your hand and plan!
Fun Paris activities with your mother
1. Tour the city by bus.
2. Musee d’Orsay.
3. Dinner at Le Souffle, 35 Rue de Mont Trabor. Only soufflés and Parisians.
4. Place des Vosges in the Marais district. Antique and art stores, fashionable cafes, and street musicians abound. Enjoy lunch at Nectarine on the Place.
5. Limit shopping. Look only for what’s not available in Atlanta.
6. Debauve & Gassais, 30 Rue des Saints Peres, 7th arrondissement (district). Exotic and sublime chocolates. Free samples.
7. Curiosity shops on Ile Saint Louis, with a stop at Bertillion for ice cream.
8. Frey Wille. Palais Royal, 167 Rue Saint Honoré. Exquisite enamel jewelry. Lunch at Les Delices de Monon, 400 Rue Saint-Honoré. Walk off dessert with a stroll through this shopping mecca to tea at the RitzHotel.
9. Eiffel Tower evening light show. It glitters like a disco ball for about 10 minutes on the hour.
10. Take a boat ride on the Seine.
Helpful Hints for a successful Paris visit with your mother
1. Consider an off-season trip, when crowds are less and packages are cheaper. Air France and Delta Air Lines vacations have shorter packages
than most tour operators, with flexible dates, favorable rates and reputable resources.
2. Be patient and plan ahead together, discussing goals and leaving little to spontaneous activities. The Louvre needs a plan. If you visit, consider investing in a private guide, even in the off-season.
3. Put your mother down for a late afternoon nap daily. If she doesn’t nap, she’ll rest, and you should, too. If you can’t rest while she does, then take a brisk walk in the neighborhood, or plan a spontaneous adventure from an armchair or cafe.
4. Manage cash, maps and documentation. If your mother needs a task, delegate guidebook references.
5. Make dinner reservations. If you show up without one and politely request a table, the maitre d’ might make room for you or suggest a suitable alternative in the neighborhood.
6. Pace yourselves. Stop at a café and people watch.
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