Gunning for Success

Project Runway's Tim Gunn

by Nicole D. Smith

April 25, 2008

When a businesswoman walks into a room, she doesn't have to say anything. Her clients, her co-workers and her employees already hear and see the statements she makes.  She's bold. She takes risks. She is a confident leader.

Yet much of her business character is revealed without her ever uttering a word. That's because it's the clothes she wears that speak volumes. Project Runway's Tim Gunn, who was in town for a Macy's fashion show, asserts that while fashion trends may come and go, there is one truism that remains: You really are what you wear.


A man's world but you're a woman
In the mid-1990s, businesswomen were all about wearing clothing that displayed power – the same power a man would have in the office. She wore the power suit. She sported the pin-striped "Mrs. Boss" gear. She embraced an androgynous look. But, as Gunn points out, the power suit is in the past and should remain there. "Businesswomen are well-advised to stay away from men's wear dressing," he says. "Those boxy tailored suits – they're not flattering to begin with – and we know you're a woman. Celebrate it. Be proud of the fact that you're a woman."  A businesswoman should wear clothing that emphasizes her natural shape, he says. Express your femininity by a wearing a high-waist belt, a wrap dress or an A-line skirt to give curve appeal.

A polished look
Not only do women - senior-level women, in particular - appear softer and more feminine when they wear business attire that conforms to their natural shapes, but they simply look more refined, according to Gunn. A natural shape creates a very clean, neat look.  "For any woman, especially those in high-powered positions, the better fitted the items are to her body, the more the clothes fall on her natural silhouette, and the more polished she's going to look," Gunn says. "She's going to want to have a beautiful, tidy, polished presentation."  To achieve this look, make sure there is not a lot of excess fabric in your outfits. It can add unwanted volume to whatever you are wearing.

Too much, too little
Women often make one of two mistakes when dressing for the business office: wearing too little or wearing too much.

In the summer, many of us are inclined to wear spring and summer clothing that shows much more of our bodies. Gunn says this can appear a bit improper, and often times your employees or colleagues may feel you are wearing clothes that are taboo. "There's a way of being extremely sexy, feminine and sophisticated without being even remotely vulgar. Sometimes, that vulgar line is crossed, and it's just not appropriate." Gunn suggests slightly opening up a blouse or top. This way no line is crossed, and you, as a businesswoman, don't seem as if you are wearing anything unsuitable but appear more relaxed and approachable.

The other mistake that women make is really the opposite: they look too buttoned-up, starched and serious. "They look like they're going to a nunnery," Gunn says. "Accentuate what you have as a woman. Accentuate your figure. Accentuate those curves. Some women are inclined to close up, but you're not a man, and you don't want to be."

You're a piece of business art
A businesswoman can dare to be the iconoclast in the office, but Gunn says the key to uniqueness isn't loud colors or fabrics with busy patterns. "The 'avant-garde' should be addressed in accessories rather than in the apparel," he says. "I would do it with more modern jewelry, big graphic cuffs, for instance." Through accessories, career women can show off one-of-a-kind pieces of jewelry that are somewhat reflective of art. "It's a way of making a statement without going too far," Gunn says.

Last word
If you want the cultured look with a modern twist, use colors to convey the message you want to project. Just remember what certain colors stand for and that colors express something about your character. Red means powerful. Black means confident. Royal blue means we have an innovator among us. And more than just traditional colors are being used in the designs for businesswomen. "For the springtime, there are lots of acidic citrus tones. Yellows, greens - even some reds that go towards a mango color - are paired with neutrals," he said.

Above all, as Gunn says, remember that the Atlanta woman is synonymous with the urbane, career woman of today, and she should never sell herself short.  "The Atlanta woman is every bit as sophisticated as anyone we would find in New York," he says. ""There's no reason to believe that [she] would be any different at all."

Project Runway's Tim Gunn hosted the "Your Perfect Style" event and spring fashion show recently at Macy's South Perimeter Mall.